Amsterdam to Dunkerque
Amsterdam, Lille, St Omer, Dunkerque.... music, chilling in the sun, hitchhiking, rough camping. All this and more. ;)
21.04.2009 - 06.05.2009
15 °C
So trip number 2 has begun!! I hope you're all as excited to hear about it as I am doing it.
Here's the first couple of weeks in a nutshell:
I left London on the 21st April, jumped on a coach at 8 o'clock and headed in the general direction of Amsterdam. Met a couple of nice people on the coach, and had a bit of a chat on the way to the channel crossing. Turned out we were taking the Eurotunnel, which was a lot less exciting than I envisioned, but one of those things that I have now ticked off my list
Got a fair amount of sleep on the coach on the rest of the journey, so when we arrived in Amsterdam at 6:30a.m. I was feeling nice and fresh.

On the Coach to Amsterdam. I look excited because I am!!
Caught the metro into town with a couple of people from the coach, they checked into their hostel and I wandered in the general direction of central station. Got my laptop out on a street corner and managed to find some wireless to contact Rob and Lally via facebook, as attempts to do so by phone had proven fruitless. I assumed (correctly) that they wouldn't be on facebook at the time, and so just decided to wander towards the campsite. Went to a supermarket first and grabbed some B&C (bread and cheese for those of you unfamiliar with the “cheap as you can” travel lingo) and headed off. Luckily I knew the way to the campsite they were staying at, as it was the same one we stayed at on the coach tour last year.
Had lunch in a park on the way, well, it was breakfast really) and got to the campsite at around 11. Had a chat to the receptionist, and managed to find Rob and Lally’s van, so I set my tent up next to it and chilled out for the afternoon in the sun. Got a call from Rob at around 5ish saying they were going to a live art show at a coffee shop in town, and so I made my way back in to catch up with them. The live art show was cool, consisted of an asian guy with a permanent marker along with a dj providing some atmosphere.

The First Bread and Cheese of many
The next few days in Amsterdam were spent mostly chilling out in the sun, we got some amazing weather, and it was just good to be out of London and work and what not. Helped Rob build some van furniture, and played a bit of music. Also met up with Jay, an Irish guy I met in a hostel when I first got to London, which was mint. The other cool things to come out of Amsterdam; I am going to catch up with Rob and Lally again after Nice, probably head to Bordeaux and the west coast with them for a bit before my hike; and, after the year of travelling is finished, I may end up in Cornwall working with Rob on a music project of some sort. So I’m quite excited about that one.

Playing Music with Rob at the Campsite
The 27th April spelt the end of Amsterdam, and I jumped on a coach to Antwerpen. Arrived at around 1ish, and made my way to the small town of Terhagen, which took about an hour on the local bus service. Hung around in a small bar for about half an hour, before meeting up with Bianca, the girl who is organizing the Swedish hiking adventure, and heading back to her place. That night another Belgian guy who is coming on the hike came around, and we went and got some pizza, and talked about how excited we were about hiking.
The next morning I woke up and checked my emails to find a message from Chelsea, the girl I was planning on staying with in Paris for a week or so. The message said that she was very sorry, but she had been fired from her job, and flown back to Canada... and in the confusion of it all had forgotten that I was coming to stay. So I had a coach to Paris the next day, with nowhere to stay, and hence not a lot to do for 8 days. I decided after much deliberation that instead of getting on my coach as planned, I would hitchhike from Antwerpen to Paris over the week, and stay in a few places along the way. After far too much planning that morning, I decided I needed to do something with my life, and so jumped on a bus into Antwerpen to do some sightseeing, and try and find a music shop for a new capo to replace one I lost in Amsterdam.
Antwerpen was a pleasant surprise. The city is actually really nice, enough history and folklore to be interesting, but not so much that the streets are swamped with other tourists. I would go as far as to say that it is one of my favourite cities in Europe so far. That night I cooked Bianca a meal as a bit of a thanks for having me thing, and we went to her Accordian band practice. Bianca plays in an accordion band, which consists of around 20 accordian players and a drummer. Was really cool. I sat and drunk Belgian beer while listening, and felt very Bavarian. I’m not quite sure why I associate accordions with being Bavarian, but I do. So deal with it. Haha.
The next day I didn’t do a lot, just made sure I had a place to stay in my next stop, which I decided would be Lille, and went for a bit of a walk to the neighbouring town of Rumst. That night Bianca returned the meal favour, and cooked me a meal with a traditional Belgian vegetable called Chicory. Then it was early to bed, as I was heading off on my first ever hitchhike, and I wanted to give myself as much time as possible.
Up at 6, and out of the house by 6:30, so managed to get to Antwerpen by around half 7. Then I walked around about 7km to the outskirts of town and an onramp to the motorway. 7km was further than it looked on google maps the night before, but I managed it alright. And then, the tricky part was over. I had guessed that I would take a little while to get Lille, and it would consist of at least two semi substantial rides. But I was picked up within 5 minutes from my spot by a very nice Belgian guy who turned out to be an off duty cop, who had done a bit of hitchhiking before. He took me 2 minutes down the road to a truck stop on the motorway, where he said it would be easier to get rides. Got out at the truck stop, and the very first truck that came past (I was there for maybe 30 seconds) picked me up, and took me all the way to Lille. I don’t know why more people don’t hitchhike places...
The trip down was interesting, the truck driver was Portugese, and spoke Spanish, Italian and Dutch, but hardly a word of English, and just as little French. (I can speak enough French now to get by and hold a very basic conversation if the person on the other end knows a little English to cover for my lack of vocabulary) So we spent the 2 hours or so on the road to Lille using outrageous hand signals and drawing diagrams to try and communicate, which was fun.
Anyway, so the ease of hitchhiking meant I was in Lille at 10:30 in the morning, and so had to fill in time for the whole day before meeting my couchsurfing accommodation at 5. I wandered down to the train station and checked my bag into a day storage thing so I wouldn’t have to lug it around, and went for a walk around the city. Lille is also a really nice town, again, about the right size to be interesting, but not so big that every man and his dog turns up to crowd the streets. I had found out in Antwerpen a couple of days before that my camera had decided to die on me... damnit... but anyway, went to find a replacement, cos it turns out sightseeing is almost a complete waste of time unless you have a camera to record what you saw. Spent my weeks budget on the cheapest digital job I could find, and then ended up doing a bit of busking to try and make some money so I could eat that night without feeling like I was spending too much.... haha. Made about 4 euros, and a couple of people took photos of me, which was nice.
At 5 I grabbed my pack from storage, and wandered down to where I had planned to meet Aurelie, (my couch surfing friend for the next couple of days). We went back to her place, which was a student residence hall, and chilled out for a couple of hours before heading out to a birthday party in one of the other rooms. Had a cool time meeting a whole lot of international students who were mainly studying French in Lille, and having a few drinks. And apparently I can now drink tequila again without throwing up all over myself, which is good to know.

Me, Aurelie (my couchsurfing host in Lille) and Maxime
The next day I went for another wander around town, did a little more busking, and saw a few more sights. Wandering through the old town would frequently find myself in eerily quiet streets with absolutely no one else around, and then would walk down a small alleyway to come face to face with a huge church out of nowhere, and swarms of people. Was cool.

Huge Churches appearing out of nowhere
Cooked a meal that night for my host, and the next morning was off again. Waited for a little longer for a ride this leg of the journey, but still managed one alright, the first pickup was from a couple that lived in Bethune, which was nicely on the way to my next destination, St Omer. They were rather eccentric, and didn’t speak a lot of English, so I got to practice my French a bit which was good. They ended up inviting me back to their house for a coffee, and I played them some of my music, and then they very nicely dropped me off at an onramp to the motorway, only about 20 mins drive from St Omer.
The ride to St Omer was uneventful, arrived and had a wander around town. St Omer is really nice, quite small but has a huge public garden that’s almost as big as the rest of the town. Very cool. Next I found a pub with free wifi to contact my host for the night. Managed to get hold of him before my phone died (I just found out I left my charger in Amsterdam) and he said he would come and meet me at the pub I was in. I had a drink and waited. And waited. 7:30 rolls around, and I’ve been sitting in the pub for 2 hours, very quickly realising that my host wasn’t coming. So I left him a couple of phone messages, and went to plan b, a bit of rough camping.
So I wandered out of town a bit, and managed to find a nice little spot beneath some trees next to the motorway, was council owned land so I wasn’t going to be bothered, and was far enough from the road that I couldn’t be seen. Pitched my tent, and sat and had a bit of a strum on the guitar and some bread and cheese before retiring for the night.

The Rough Campsite in St Omer
Woke up to rain (albeit soft rain) and so hung around in my tent for a while in the hope that it would let up, but it didn’t, so I had to pack up in the rain which was a bit annoying.. And then by the time I had walked into town the sun was shining!! Damn it. Haha. Sat in the pub again for my morning coffee, and worked out where to go next, deciding on Dunkerque, as I had a couchsurfing reply from an American girl there. So I wandered out to the highway yet again, and stuck my thumb out.
Arrived in Dunkerque at about 2 in the afternoon, and I had arranged to meet my host for the night at around 6, so I had a bit of a walk around. Ended up at the beach, and sat down on the boardwalk to do some busking... managed to make 18 euros!! So my most successful busk since St Ives, and by far the best one with the little guitar :D Had a chat to a few people who were interested in my music as well, so was cool. Then at 6 I headed towards Hillary’s place.

Jamming with Hillary (Host in Dunkerque). I wish I could share some of the music with you, cos it was excellent, but I got nothing...
The next couple of days in Dunkerque were cool, chilled out on the dunes for a bit, shared some Flight of the Conchords with some French people, and had a couple of nights on Belgian beer. (That stuff is rather strong...) Hillary plays the cello, and we have had some epic jam sessions in the last couple of days. She played a bit behind some of my songs, and made me wish I had my little recording mic with me. Was also going to do some land yachting, as there is a club down the road where you can get an introductory 2 hours for 26 euros, but the aforementioned Belgian beer from the night before made this seem like a very large effort, so I took the lazy option. I think I will return at some point though to do it, cos it looks like a lot of fun. I also went on a bit of a day trip to Bergues with Hillary, which is a cool walled city about 15km away from Dunkerque. And now I’m typing this for you all. \

Bergues. These walled cities are impressive, no?
So that’s the trip up until now. Tomorrow I head to Paris for one night, and then to Nice on the overnight party train to catch up with Amandine and Jessi Lloyd. From there will be to Lyon to meet up with Rob and Lally and their van again, and then I begin the journey to Sweden (via London) for my big hike!
I hope you've enjoyed reading... it took me a long time to type, so you better have!! 2500 words! I feel like I'm at uni again.
Posted by adolucas 06.05.2009 10:40 Tagged backpacking Comments (0)
















